One of the great joys of living here in the Languedoc and having Carcassonne market just two minutes down the road is locally grown asparagus in mid-March, a good month or more earlier than I could ever get hold of local asparagus in the UK and earlier than most parts of France if reports from friends around the country are anything to go by.
In London we would buy it at any time, flown in from far flung places all year round - but it never ever compared to the locally grown stuff. When we moved to France we vowed to eat local and seasonal because we could - and we do.
So we have waited for nine months for the new asparagus season and it arrived two weekends ago when the the stall of M. Villa from Cavanac appeared in the market for the first time this year. That Saturday we were a bit tardy getting down to the market, it also being a grey, wet and windy morning, and were lucky to grab some of the last spears - it seems that the whole of Carcassonne has been waiting for the asparagus too!
We will eat it for the next three months until we are sick of it but that's ok because there will be lots of other things to gorge on by then. Even so, it's always good to find a new way to treat it and that's what happened this week - not only that but I used the left over ends after eating the tender part of the spear in a conventional way (melted butter and parmesan shavings if you must know) and I like nothing better than getting a delicious dish out of leftovers from another delicious dish.
Credit where it's due - this recipe owes an enormous amount to Yotam Ottolenghi's recipe for Asparagus Vichyssoise from his book 'Plenty', a marvellous source of ideas for vegetables - but his soup is cold, uses the whole asparagus spear and includes potato and sugar whilst mine is hot, uses the leftover ends and has no starch or sugar. Isn't that the way it should be though? - we use other recipes for inspiration but put our own twist on them based on instinct and what we have to hand at any given time. Sometimes it doesn't work but just sometimes you end up with something wonderful - as with this soup.
Ingredients;
- leftover ends from 500g of asparagus spears, green parts chopped into 2cm bits and any really woody white parts discarded
- one leek and one shallot/three spring onions (whatever you have - I had half a huge end of a comedy spring onion the size of a cricket ball) outer layers removed and chopped.
- 500ml of vegetable stock
- 25g butter
- 50ml cream
- 2 tablespoons fromage frais (or greek yoghurt or creme fraiche)
- lemon zest
- salt and pepper
To prepare;
- saute the leek, onion and asparagus in the butter for 5 minutes over a gentle heat
- add the stock and some salt and pepper and simmer gently for 30 minutes
- blitz to a smooth consistency in a blender (you can then pour it through a sieve for an even smoother texture if you wish)
- stir in the cream and fromage frais and check the seasoning
- reheat gently to serving temperature
- serve with freshly grated lemon zest ( a truly inspirational final touch that elevates the dish to the monumentally sublime)
If you are making this to impress you could add finely chopped mint and a swirl of cream or keep back some of the tender asparagus tips to garnish the final dish.
We were so impressed that I plan to make it again tomorrow and then again for this weekend's clients on Sunday. I bet it's delicious cold too - I just haven't tried that yet.
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Monday, March 21, 2011
Vinocamp
The third Vinocamp took place in Carcassonne over the weekend. The first and second took place in Paris and Burgundy and the next will be in Bordeaux so the Languedoc is in very good company with France's top wine regions.
The event has nothing to do with camping and everything to do with wine, and how to use social networking, the internet, websites and blogging to promote your wine business. It was a joy to welcome Louise Hurren, independent wine journalist and marketeer, and Wendy Gedney, provider of the most interesting and informative wine tours in the region, to 42rvh for the weekend. As well as being really good friends they are experts at what they do.
We enjoyed a very convivial dinner on Friday evening, with a surprisingly Portuguese flavour to it - Alentejo pork and clams (a recipe taught me by the great David Eyre) washed down with Esporao Reserva 2008 (a wine Debrah had discovered on BA during her recent New York trip). It was a match made in heaven - one can rarely go wrong with the local dish and the local wine paired together.
I sadly missed out on the main discussion forums during Saturday but was happy to be able to join the Outsiders tasting hosted by O'Vineyards on Sunday lunchtime. The Outsiders are a group of winemakers whose origins lie outside the region but who are all producing excellent examples of interesting, delicious, drinkable Languedoc wine - they all have great stories to tell and they are all marvellous examples of what can be achieved with passion and desire in this fabulous winemaking landscape. They make me want to buy some vines myself.
It was a pleasure to meet for the first time Caryl Panman from Ch Rives-Blanques, Ruth Simpson from Dom Sainte Rose and Jon and Rachel Hesford from Dom Trelour and old friends Katie Jones from Dom Jones and of course Ryan O'Connell and his parents Joe and Liz from O'Vineyards
Needless to say, I can't do justice to them all here in one blog so I will revisit in future episodes and give much more detail about the people, their vineyards and their wines.
The event has nothing to do with camping and everything to do with wine, and how to use social networking, the internet, websites and blogging to promote your wine business. It was a joy to welcome Louise Hurren, independent wine journalist and marketeer, and Wendy Gedney, provider of the most interesting and informative wine tours in the region, to 42rvh for the weekend. As well as being really good friends they are experts at what they do.
We enjoyed a very convivial dinner on Friday evening, with a surprisingly Portuguese flavour to it - Alentejo pork and clams (a recipe taught me by the great David Eyre) washed down with Esporao Reserva 2008 (a wine Debrah had discovered on BA during her recent New York trip). It was a match made in heaven - one can rarely go wrong with the local dish and the local wine paired together.
I sadly missed out on the main discussion forums during Saturday but was happy to be able to join the Outsiders tasting hosted by O'Vineyards on Sunday lunchtime. The Outsiders are a group of winemakers whose origins lie outside the region but who are all producing excellent examples of interesting, delicious, drinkable Languedoc wine - they all have great stories to tell and they are all marvellous examples of what can be achieved with passion and desire in this fabulous winemaking landscape. They make me want to buy some vines myself.
It was a pleasure to meet for the first time Caryl Panman from Ch Rives-Blanques, Ruth Simpson from Dom Sainte Rose and Jon and Rachel Hesford from Dom Trelour and old friends Katie Jones from Dom Jones and of course Ryan O'Connell and his parents Joe and Liz from O'Vineyards
Needless to say, I can't do justice to them all here in one blog so I will revisit in future episodes and give much more detail about the people, their vineyards and their wines.
Back to the Future
It was a staple of every restaurant menu in the 1970's and, therefore, it's reputation has suffered by association as the food revolution over the last 30 years has taken us through nouvelle cuisine, fusion food and the rediscovery of British cooking.
Some 70's classics have survived by being reinvented for the modern palate - the prawn cocktail springs to mind - although I can't see anything wrong with the original version which we still eat on a regular basis.
The dish I am talking about is duck a l'orange. It has the air of Robert Carrier and Graham Kerr hanging over it and I can't remember the last time I saw it on a restaurant menu. Yet the time is ripe for a revival because French cuisine is back in vogue in a big way with new French restaurants opening in London and New York at an astonishing rate over the last year or so.
It is a fabulous dish and has become a firm favourite at 42rvh, especially during the winter months when there is a plentiful supply of good oranges coming up from Spain and winter bitter leaves which make the ideal salad to offset the rich duck and fruity orange - and of course we always have duck to hand.
This is how I prepare it for 2 people.
- Take one large duck breast (preferably magret). Score the fatty side in a criss-cross pattern down to the flesh.
- Make a marinade with the juice and zest of 2 oranges and a tablespoon each of runny honey, ground cinnamon and soy sauce. Marinate the duck breast overnight in the fridge.
- To cook, in a dry pan fry the duck breast skin side down over a medium heat for 10 minutes to render and brown the fat. When done tip away any excess fat from the pan, turn the breast over, add the marinade and orange segments from another orange and cook for a further 5 minutes. Then remove the duck breast to a board to rest, add 25 gms of butter to the marinade and reduce a little.
- to serve, slice the duck breast at an angle and arrange on two plates (approx 4-5 slices each) and dress with the sauce and a dressed mixed salad (I like to use radicchio and frisee).
It is important to cook the duck on a medium heat - I can't remember how many I have burnt by having the heat too high or not keeping an eye on it. If you can't get hold of a large magret de canard then you may need 2 smaller duck breasts and adjust the cooking time accordingly.
Last week we found some delicious and beautiful blood oranges in the market and experimented with them in this dish. The taste was not particularly any different but the colour of the blood orange segments certainly added a spectacular dimension.
So find the Glam Rock compilation on your ipod and give it a go.
Some 70's classics have survived by being reinvented for the modern palate - the prawn cocktail springs to mind - although I can't see anything wrong with the original version which we still eat on a regular basis.
The dish I am talking about is duck a l'orange. It has the air of Robert Carrier and Graham Kerr hanging over it and I can't remember the last time I saw it on a restaurant menu. Yet the time is ripe for a revival because French cuisine is back in vogue in a big way with new French restaurants opening in London and New York at an astonishing rate over the last year or so.
It is a fabulous dish and has become a firm favourite at 42rvh, especially during the winter months when there is a plentiful supply of good oranges coming up from Spain and winter bitter leaves which make the ideal salad to offset the rich duck and fruity orange - and of course we always have duck to hand.
This is how I prepare it for 2 people.
- Take one large duck breast (preferably magret). Score the fatty side in a criss-cross pattern down to the flesh.
- Make a marinade with the juice and zest of 2 oranges and a tablespoon each of runny honey, ground cinnamon and soy sauce. Marinate the duck breast overnight in the fridge.
- To cook, in a dry pan fry the duck breast skin side down over a medium heat for 10 minutes to render and brown the fat. When done tip away any excess fat from the pan, turn the breast over, add the marinade and orange segments from another orange and cook for a further 5 minutes. Then remove the duck breast to a board to rest, add 25 gms of butter to the marinade and reduce a little.
- to serve, slice the duck breast at an angle and arrange on two plates (approx 4-5 slices each) and dress with the sauce and a dressed mixed salad (I like to use radicchio and frisee).
It is important to cook the duck on a medium heat - I can't remember how many I have burnt by having the heat too high or not keeping an eye on it. If you can't get hold of a large magret de canard then you may need 2 smaller duck breasts and adjust the cooking time accordingly.
Last week we found some delicious and beautiful blood oranges in the market and experimented with them in this dish. The taste was not particularly any different but the colour of the blood orange segments certainly added a spectacular dimension.
So find the Glam Rock compilation on your ipod and give it a go.
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Le Trauquet
Here at 42rvh we pride ourselves on being able to send our clients to the restaurant or bar that matches their wants, their needs and their budget - and also to help them find the great local places that their guidebook won't mention.
Before we can recommend somewhere we need to try it for ourselves and before we try it we need to find it. I know, it's a tough life we have chosen for ourselves - having to force ourselves out of the house to conduct restaurant reviews - I admit it's a fabulous bonus of the life we lead.
As with anyone living on the doorstep of a tourist attraction - in our case the magnificent medieval Cité of Carcassonne - we hardly ever visit it because, well because it is full of tourists. But without doubt, every single one of our clients will visit it so visit we must too in the name of research.
We had planned to call in at a bar and then move on to a restaurant for lunch. It was a glorious early Spring day with a cloudless blue sky and the temperature pushing 20 degrees. Even though it is still early in the season and it was midweek, there were hundreds if not a couple of thousand tourists strolling the old streets.
So imagine our surprise when we found both establishments firmly closed with business going begging past their front doors. What on earth is wrong with these people? - why not close in January?
The reviews of these two places will now have to wait until they decide to open for business.
It was 12.30pm, we were hungry and we were in the Cité - out of the setback came the opportunity to discover somewhere new and that is how we came to lunch at Le Trauquet.
Le Trauquet is a sweet little tourist restaurant serving classic dishes (entrecote, cassoulet, salads) very well. It has the usual range of fixed price menus from €10 to €20, a charming owner and a sun-drenched terrace - a perfect affordable lunch spot in a busy tourist attraction.
In mid-Summer I suspect you will need to be seated as close to midday as possible to get a table for lunch, but today we had a choice of tables arriving an hour later than that. That's not to say they weren't busy - we counted at least 50 covers whilst we were there which is a healthy trade for a small restaurant at any time of year.
Our entrecote with chips and salad was cooked perfectly, one rare and one medium. The service was fast, efficient and polite. The bill, with a large bottle of Badoit, a small pichet of red wine and a coffee came to €33 - which to my mind is a bargain lunch in a tourist trap.
It was so warm I removed my jacket and sweater and ate lunch in short sleeves and Debrah got the added bonus of a sunburnt nose - in March!
You've got to love the south of France.
le trauquet, place du petit puits, la Cité +33 468 474931
Before we can recommend somewhere we need to try it for ourselves and before we try it we need to find it. I know, it's a tough life we have chosen for ourselves - having to force ourselves out of the house to conduct restaurant reviews - I admit it's a fabulous bonus of the life we lead.
As with anyone living on the doorstep of a tourist attraction - in our case the magnificent medieval Cité of Carcassonne - we hardly ever visit it because, well because it is full of tourists. But without doubt, every single one of our clients will visit it so visit we must too in the name of research.
We had planned to call in at a bar and then move on to a restaurant for lunch. It was a glorious early Spring day with a cloudless blue sky and the temperature pushing 20 degrees. Even though it is still early in the season and it was midweek, there were hundreds if not a couple of thousand tourists strolling the old streets.
So imagine our surprise when we found both establishments firmly closed with business going begging past their front doors. What on earth is wrong with these people? - why not close in January?
The reviews of these two places will now have to wait until they decide to open for business.
It was 12.30pm, we were hungry and we were in the Cité - out of the setback came the opportunity to discover somewhere new and that is how we came to lunch at Le Trauquet.
Le Trauquet is a sweet little tourist restaurant serving classic dishes (entrecote, cassoulet, salads) very well. It has the usual range of fixed price menus from €10 to €20, a charming owner and a sun-drenched terrace - a perfect affordable lunch spot in a busy tourist attraction.
In mid-Summer I suspect you will need to be seated as close to midday as possible to get a table for lunch, but today we had a choice of tables arriving an hour later than that. That's not to say they weren't busy - we counted at least 50 covers whilst we were there which is a healthy trade for a small restaurant at any time of year.
Our entrecote with chips and salad was cooked perfectly, one rare and one medium. The service was fast, efficient and polite. The bill, with a large bottle of Badoit, a small pichet of red wine and a coffee came to €33 - which to my mind is a bargain lunch in a tourist trap.
It was so warm I removed my jacket and sweater and ate lunch in short sleeves and Debrah got the added bonus of a sunburnt nose - in March!
You've got to love the south of France.
le trauquet, place du petit puits, la Cité +33 468 474931
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Spring is so close
It has been the most glorious weekend in Carcassonne - unbroken blue skies, new produce in the market and blossom bursting forth - Spring is so very nearly here.
Here at 42rvh we have just about had our fill of cauliflower and cabbage - we adored it's comfort back in November but are now so craving something fresher and livelier. We are on the cusp of the change.
Yesterday's market had the first local asparagus and some Spanish peas, beans and strawberries. They are not yet at their best - far from it - but they are a sign of things to come. Last night we had simply cooked asparagus with butter and this morning strawberries, yoghurt and granola for breakfast. Nothing dramatic in that but a welcome shift in our eating habits that promises delights around the corner.
An hour sat outside The Saillan with friends yesterday lunchtime resulted in layers being removed at regular intervals, such was the effect of a sheltered spot in full sun out of the breeze. Today was no different - we drove to Lastours and the Minervois with the roof down on the Audi.
The impending change is very evident out in the countryside. There is white almond blossom and pink cherry blossom and yellow mimosa providing spectacularly colourful highlights against the still mostly grey/brown drab winter landscape. The scent of the blossom lifts the spirit and highlights the joy of driving an open top car on days like these but although the fields are ploughed and the vines are pruned it is still too early for signs of agricultural growth.
Spring is not yet here - we have had a Springlike weekend full of the promise of the joys to come, but the temperature still plummets during the clear starlit nights and the cabbage will remain in the diet for another couple of weeks at least and the vines will surely wait a little longer before they feel it is safe to start the new wine production cycle. Don't go to early because we await as ever what you have in store for us this year.
Here at 42rvh we have just about had our fill of cauliflower and cabbage - we adored it's comfort back in November but are now so craving something fresher and livelier. We are on the cusp of the change.
Yesterday's market had the first local asparagus and some Spanish peas, beans and strawberries. They are not yet at their best - far from it - but they are a sign of things to come. Last night we had simply cooked asparagus with butter and this morning strawberries, yoghurt and granola for breakfast. Nothing dramatic in that but a welcome shift in our eating habits that promises delights around the corner.
An hour sat outside The Saillan with friends yesterday lunchtime resulted in layers being removed at regular intervals, such was the effect of a sheltered spot in full sun out of the breeze. Today was no different - we drove to Lastours and the Minervois with the roof down on the Audi.
The impending change is very evident out in the countryside. There is white almond blossom and pink cherry blossom and yellow mimosa providing spectacularly colourful highlights against the still mostly grey/brown drab winter landscape. The scent of the blossom lifts the spirit and highlights the joy of driving an open top car on days like these but although the fields are ploughed and the vines are pruned it is still too early for signs of agricultural growth.
Spring is not yet here - we have had a Springlike weekend full of the promise of the joys to come, but the temperature still plummets during the clear starlit nights and the cabbage will remain in the diet for another couple of weeks at least and the vines will surely wait a little longer before they feel it is safe to start the new wine production cycle. Don't go to early because we await as ever what you have in store for us this year.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Soup
Soup. Is there anything easier to prepare? Is there anything more nourishing? Anything more heartwarming?
Here at 42rvh we don't think so and this past week has seen an abundance of soup - some planned in advance, some off the cuff, some not quite as expected and some surpassing expectations - but all delicious and fabulous.
It started with me deciding to spice up our usual pumpkin offering with a bit of fresh chilli. Now we all know that chillis can be hot, medium or mildly ticklish and it depends on your tolerance level as to where any chilli you encounter registers on that scale. In other words, it can be a bit of a lottery. Here in France we are often told that the chillis we are buying are 'tres fort' only to find they are nothing of the sort.
So I spiced up my pumpkin soup expecting a mildly warming effect and was slightly surprised to find the result more attention seeking than planned - but nonetheless quite delicious.
This soup was for a client dinner and I was suddenly a bit hesitant about it's use given that everyone's tolerance is different. I needed an alternative to offer and frozen peas were my saviour. I adore freshly podded peas but there is absolutely nothing wrong with frozen peas and I always have some lurking in reserve for just such an occasion. Shallot, stock, peas and mint - what could be simpler? - add some cream and crispy fried bacon bits and you have a soup to die for.
At the dinner two went for pumpkin and two went for the pea and all bowls were emptied with obvious satisfaction.
The following day Debrah roasted up some lacklustre winter tomatoes and turned them into the most wonderfully warming tomato soup made with the roasted tomatoes, some gently fried shallot, some stock and some seasoning all whizzed up together in the processor.
The weather had turned a little chillier again and naturally a warming bowl of home made soup was what we were still craving as the week progressed. It wasn't a market day so we had to make do with what was at hand - which turned out to be a bunch of carrots and a bunch of coriander. It couldn't have been better - the sweetness of the carrots, the aromatic coriander and some heat from ground black pepper worked a treat
Soup.
It's so easy and it's so good. An onion, some stock and some vegetables - it's all you need for a fantastic lunch or a refined first course for a dinner - give it a go.
Here at 42rvh we don't think so and this past week has seen an abundance of soup - some planned in advance, some off the cuff, some not quite as expected and some surpassing expectations - but all delicious and fabulous.
It started with me deciding to spice up our usual pumpkin offering with a bit of fresh chilli. Now we all know that chillis can be hot, medium or mildly ticklish and it depends on your tolerance level as to where any chilli you encounter registers on that scale. In other words, it can be a bit of a lottery. Here in France we are often told that the chillis we are buying are 'tres fort' only to find they are nothing of the sort.
So I spiced up my pumpkin soup expecting a mildly warming effect and was slightly surprised to find the result more attention seeking than planned - but nonetheless quite delicious.
This soup was for a client dinner and I was suddenly a bit hesitant about it's use given that everyone's tolerance is different. I needed an alternative to offer and frozen peas were my saviour. I adore freshly podded peas but there is absolutely nothing wrong with frozen peas and I always have some lurking in reserve for just such an occasion. Shallot, stock, peas and mint - what could be simpler? - add some cream and crispy fried bacon bits and you have a soup to die for.
At the dinner two went for pumpkin and two went for the pea and all bowls were emptied with obvious satisfaction.
The following day Debrah roasted up some lacklustre winter tomatoes and turned them into the most wonderfully warming tomato soup made with the roasted tomatoes, some gently fried shallot, some stock and some seasoning all whizzed up together in the processor.
The weather had turned a little chillier again and naturally a warming bowl of home made soup was what we were still craving as the week progressed. It wasn't a market day so we had to make do with what was at hand - which turned out to be a bunch of carrots and a bunch of coriander. It couldn't have been better - the sweetness of the carrots, the aromatic coriander and some heat from ground black pepper worked a treat
Soup.
It's so easy and it's so good. An onion, some stock and some vegetables - it's all you need for a fantastic lunch or a refined first course for a dinner - give it a go.
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